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What We Talk About When We Talk About Dumplings

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Nearly every culture has a variation on the dumpling: histories, treatises, family legends, and recipes about the world’s favourite lump of carbs.

​​​​If the world’s cuisines share one common food, it might be the dumpling, a dish that can be found on every continent and in every culinary tradition, from Asia to Central Europe to Latin America. Originally from China, they evolved into ravioli, samosas, momos, gyozas, tamales, pierogies, matzo balls, wontons, empanadas, potato chops, and many more.

In this unique anthology, food writers, journalists, culinary historians, and musicians share histories of their culture’s version of the dumpling, family dumpling lore, interesting encounters with these little delights, and even recipes to unwrap the magic of the world’s favourite dish.

Contributors include: Michal Stein, Christina Gonzales, Kristen Arnett, David Buchbinder, André Alexis, Miles Morrisseau, Angela Misri, Perry King, Sylvia Putz, Mekhala Chaubal, Arlene Chan, Chantal Braganza, Naomi Duguid, Eric Geringas, Matthew Murtagh-Wu, Monika Warzecha, Bev Katz Rosenbaum, Tatum Taylor Chaubal, Domenica Marchetti, Julie Van Rosendaal, Amy Rosen, Cheryl Thompson, Jennifer Jordan, Marie Campbell and Navneet Alang

Contributors

John Lorinc

John Lorinc is a Toronto journalist and editor. He writes about urban affairs, climate, and business for a range of publications, including Spacing, the Globe and Mail, and the Walrus. He is the author of four books, including Dream States (Coach House Books, 2022) and has co-edited or project-managed five previous Coach House uTOpia anthologies.

Karon Liu

Karon Liu has been a staff food reporter for the Toronto Star since 2015 and aims to link food with culture, history, identity, politics – anything you can imagine. He’s also an avid home cook, and his favourite utensil is a pair of wooden chopsticks his grandma used to use.
Chapter Title Contents Contributors Pages Year Price

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In the Preface editor John Lorinc provides a brief history of dumplings, the spread of dumplings across the globe,and a list of the types of dumplings discussed within the collection. 7 $0.70

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In the Introduction Karon Liu describes his goal to map the dumplings of Toronto, highlighting culinary diversity in the multiethnic make up of the city, migration, tradition, Covid-19 and  … 6 $0.60

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Michael Stein reflects on his “dumplings around the world” feast to honour his late friend Julie-Rae, friendship, religion, and the food as Shivas. 13 $1.30

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Christina Gonzales discusses the Filipino siopao, how they attest to the history of the Philippines, colonization, cultural influence of Spanish, Chinese, and Americans on the islands, and her … 7 $0.70

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Kristen Arnett examines the concept of ravioli. 2 $0.20

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David Buchbinder reflects on the matzo ball of Jewish culinary cuisine, what makes for the best matzo, preferences and generational traditions, Jewish traditions, and the power of food for a … 9 $0.90

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André Alexis reflects on the Trinidadian dumplings of the island of his birth, ideas of belonging and not belonging in the identity of first generation immigrants, food cultures and taboos, … 5 $0.50

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Miles Morrisseau reflects on his Métis culture and ties to cuisine, hunting game, place and belonging to Métis diaspora, the loss of status rights and gender discrimination, land and … 11 $1.10

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Angela Misri reflects on how her mothers samosas and pakoras reflected her own upbringing in Kashmir, the rules of a Misiri kitchen, her relationship with her mother, longing for Canadian foods, … 11 $1.10

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Perry King shares his own connection to Guyanese food and flavours, the use of dumplings in chicken and vegetable soups, the influences of Caribbean flavours, and his fear of spice and hot things … 4 $0.40

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Sylvia Putz discusses her love of Asian styles of dumplings, the experience of making dumplings with her book club, her friend Lucy and her Korean dumplings, bonding over food, and being like a … 8 $0.80

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Mekhala Chaubal shares her love of madak, a cardamom infused steamed rice dumplings made as an offering to the indian god ganapati or ganesha, the tradition in Indian and in Toronto, making … 6 $0.60

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Arlene Chan discusses her connection to Cantonises food and in particular the wonton, her family’s Kwong Chow Chop Suey Restaurant in Toronto, the annual ritual of making dumplings for … 6 $0.60

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Chantal Braganza reflects on her grandmothers ‘potato chops’, the Goan food of her father, the Portuguese influence on Indian food in the city of Goa, cooking as a gesture of love, … 7 $0.70

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Naomi Duguid reflects on her love for the food of Hong Kong, her tai chi instructor Madame Tsang, the Hong Kong Bakery, and jiaozi. 6 $0.60

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Eric Geringas reflects on his relationship to Knedlík, a Czech style of dumplings, his time in Czechoslovakia teaching English, Czech beer, poverty cuisine, and the culture of Prague. 5 $0.50

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Matthew Murtagh-Wu reflects on growing up in Vancouver’s Chinatown, his business the Dumpling King, his mama dumpling recipe, and the power of nostalgia. 6 $0.60

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Monika Warzecha reflects on pierogies and becoming the ‘pierogi princess’, being a hyphenated Canadian, the multicultural classrooms of Toronto, Polish diaspora in Canada, Polish … 7 $0.70

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Bev Katz Rosenbaum highlights the under-represented kreplach, a jewish delicacy, the popularity of matzo ball soup, her ties to her Ashkenazic heritage, and ties to traditional foods. 4 $0.40

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Tatum Taylor Chaubal shares his own New Years tradition of making Texas style cornmeal dumplings, bringing the tradition north after leaving Texas, the mixing of African and European foodways, … 3 $0.30

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Domenica Marchetti explores the Italian potato pasta, gnocchi, her parents attributing gnocchi as helping them fall in love, the gnocchi process, regional differences in gnocchi flavours and … 10 $1.00

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Julie Van Rosendaal reflects on her relationship with perogies and its ties to her prairie upbringing, Baba’s Homestyle Perogies in Saskatoon, Eastern European migration in Western Canada, … 5 $0.50

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Amy Rosen reflects on matzo ball soup, Jewishness and Judaism, industrial matzo ball making, the authority on matzo, recipes that evoke specific memories, and context. 6 $0.60

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Cheryl Thompson reflects on her parents ties to their Jamaican roots through food, learning to make Jamaican food, the book Traditional Jamaican Cookery, food history, the Jamaican beef patty, … 5 $0.50

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John Lorinc examines the Cornish pastys, the Cornish Pasty Association (CPA), Cornish national identity, and the social history and lore of food. 6 $0.60

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Jennifer Jordan explores Austrian Dumplings and the 2005 appointment of the ‘Dumpling Manager’, dumpling maps of Upper Austria, dumplings ties to both elite and poverty cuisine, … 10 $1.00

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John Lorinc discusses Salvador Allende and his use of food (empanadas) to present a strong Chilean identity, national identities and food, food and politics, empanada as a symbol of nationalist … 5 $0.50

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Marie Campbell discusses the history of chinaware, the silk road, porcelain and its ties to status, food history, and material culture. 5 $0.50

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Navneet Alang reflects on the authenticity of cuisine from various and massive diasporas, ownership over food, cultural appropriation and the dismissal of so-called ‘foreign’ food, … 6 $0.60

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In the conclusion John Lorinc  reflects on the family tree and map of dumplings, improvisation and change, tradition and culture. 7 $0.70